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Some Common Sense
Thoughts on Homes and Wildfires
DO NOT rely on your local fire protection district to
save you and your house during a large wildfire event.
Such an event can have hundreds of fires burning at once
driven by 60 mph winds; the last one in north Idaho
occurred in 1910 and burned over 3,000,000 acres.
They can occur every 100 years or two years in a row;
they can be larger or smaller (every summer the news
reports out of control fires); nobody can predict the
long term weather or their occurrence. What is
certain though, is in these big fire events any rural
fire district will be overwhelmed quickly, and
paradoxically, the longer this large event is postponed
by successful firefighting efforts, the more intense it
will be because of fuel build up. Defensible space
is scientifically proven to be effective, and you must
take responsibility for protection of your property and
the lives of your loved ones into your own hands.
While many people picture or assume wildfire
is always a solid wall of flame, somewhat like an
avalanche of snow that consumes everything in its path,
this is usually not the case. What is more common,
especially in Wildland Urban Interface areas, is a wind
driven fire, spreading sporadically by opportunistic
seeking embers, riding the air currents.
Therefore, the way to defend a home against wildfire is
twofold:
- Keep flames at least 100 feet away by the use of defensible space.
Research has shown that at this distance flames from a wildfire will not
have enough energy to ignite the typical walls in an urban home. This is why
the carefully planned removal of much of the flammable vegetation within
this zone results in a pleasing-to-the-eye area, known as survivable or
defensible space. Flame lengths, which are as tall as 100’ in an out of
control wildfire are reduced to a much more manageable length of two to five
feet in this clean park-like setting.
- Once this defensible space is created,
maintain it. If this is
done correctly, the second year will be half as difficult as the
first, while the third year will be only half as difficult as the
second. After three years routine maintenance will be relatively easy.
- Since the objective is to create a healthy, open park-like setting, this
often involves competitive wild grasses or other low vegetation
spreading between the selected
remaining plants. All one has to do is keep the playing field or
ecosystem tipped in favor of the desired plants, and nature will do
the rest.
- Create an inner zone where these reduced intensity fires have no ability
to ignite anything. This 30’ area should be "lean, green, and clean". Some
suggested methods to accomplish this are as follows and all are common sense
ways to deny successful landings for the opportunistic seeking embers:
- Do not have a cedar shake roof. For that matter do
not have any roof
rated less than class A or allow easily ignitable fuels, such as pine needles,
to accumulate on it.
- Do not have open, dirty, cluttered wooden decks.
If there is a space between the bottom of the
deck and the ground between one inch and three
feet then keep this area free of debris.
- Do not openly stack firewood next to the walls in fire
season. Either enclose the fire wood or delay wood getting till the
fall.
- Do not plant flammable junipers next to the
home's walls and under the eaves of the roof.
- Do keep at least a 30' wide watered lawn.
In reality this is not much area and is
relatively easy to accomplish. Eliminating
flammable fuels next to the home is the single
best method of preventing home loss to wildfire.
- Do keep up with the maintenance of the
defensible space. This is the second most
important thing you can do.
- Do have neighborhood meetings to discuss
fire safety. In many cases these can be
held in conjunction with road meetings and etc.
Collaborated with the neighbors and practice the
old adage that every chain is only as strong as
its weakest link.
- An excellent publication on defensible space,
wildfire, and related topics is Protecting and
Landscaping Homes in the Wildland Urban Interface,
available as a free downloadable document at the
University of Idaho Extension.
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